Words and images by Dr Kawa Amin
Summer in the southern Mediterranean can be surprisingly intense, even in places known for their mild climate. For our family trip, we visited Northern Morocco to deepen our understanding of an important part of Islamic history and the experiences of those evacuated from their homeland. I, Kawa, was very excited, and so were my wife, Huda, and our daughter, Mariam. While we can visit Morocco other times, summer isn’t the best choice.
“It’s hot, and there’s not much we can do except hide in the hotel,” Mariam sighed.
“That’s true,” I replied. “Next time, we’ll plan more carefully.”
Climate change has made summers harsher across the globe, even in regions that were once popular for their pleasant weather. What draws me to Northern Morocco is its unique blend of Morisco, Amazigh, and Arab cultures, a rare and beautiful mix that offers deep lessons in history and coexistence.
Tangier: The Coral City
We embarked on our journey in Tangier, landing at Ibn Battuta Airport. “What a testament to this city’s rich culture and history,” I said, proud to share that the airport honours the illustrious 13th-century traveller. Tangier stands at the meeting point of the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, enriched by a history filled with diverse civilisations. From its origins as a Phoenician trading hub over two millennia ago, the city showcases a remarkable fusion of Amazigh, Arab, Greek, and Iberian influences, inviting us all to appreciate the beauty of its cultural mosaic.
Our plan for sightseeing
We first visited the Caves of Hercules, which are natural and man-made. 16th-century inhabitants carved stone wheels for milestones from the cave walls. The cave has two entrances, one from the land and the other leading to the sea, offering a stunning view through a window that resembles a map of Africa. The cave’s curves and the stone formations, some resembling heads, sparked my imagination about the stories of Hercules and his adventures battling monsters. I noticed many bird nests on the walls and the cave’s hollows.
“The weather is cold and nice here!” I whispered to myself.
The cave connects to one of the longest stony and sandy beaches I have ever seen, stretching to Cape Spartel.
Next, we went to Cape Spartel, located at the southern entrance of the Strait of Gibraltar, where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. The lighthouse at Cape Malabata provided breathtaking views, with winds blowing from every direction, making the scenery even more spectacular. After a long day of exploration, we returned to the hotel to rest and plan for our second day.
The next destination was the Old City’s Citadel (Kasbah), much of which dates to the Portuguese period of the town. We took another taxi to the Grand Mosque of Tangier, originally built on a Roman temple dedicated to Hercules. Over the years, it has been converted into a cathedral and a mosque, depending on who was in power. Huda remarked on how some places remain sacred for worship, no matter who is in charge or how they reach out to the Creator.
Notable bastions include the Irish Tower (Bordj al-Naʿam), York Castle (Bordj dar al-Barud), and Bordj al-Salam. The Kasbah Palace, former residence of the governors of Tangier, is now the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures.
We held our Friday congregation at Lalla Abla Mosque, which is located on the port, very close to the old city. In the evening, we strolled along the beach and enjoyed the sea view while indulging in fast food and refreshments. The food was delightful, especially the Moroccan dish, Tagine, is a must-try.
We then decided to explore the villages surrounding the city and visited Ain-Zarka. There, we savoured fresh figs and their special round Khubz bread. The villages are home to beautiful waterfalls, a serene lake, and peaceful gardens.
Regarding railway services, the city offers excellent connections to Rabat, Casablanca, Marrakesh to the south, and Fes and Oujda to the east. The service is affordable and provides a great option for those looking to visit these cities.
Tétouan: The Andalusian City
Tétouan was our next destination, nestled in the picturesque Martil Valley, roughly 60 kilometres from Tangier. The modern history of the city dates to the late 15th century when it was rebuilt and fortified by Ali al-Mandri, who had emigrated from Granada before it fell to Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile in 1492. Following the fall of Granada, thousands of Muslims and Jews from Andalusia migrated to northern Morocco, settling on the ruins of Tétouan. This rich cultural heritage reflects centuries of interactions among different influences, predominantly showcasing an Andalusian style of life and architecture.
Sightseeing Plan in Tétouan
We began our exploration in the Medina, which is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The old town features narrow cobblestone streets that distinctly delineate residential neighbourhoods (Zanga), commercial zones, and main thoroughfares with shops and services. Each quarter typically houses a mosque, a Quran learning center, a bakery, and a hammam (bath). Artisans, such as weavers, jewellers, and leather workers, practice their crafts in specific areas. The Grand Mosque, the oldest in the city dating back to the 16th century, is a highlight. Doors of the homes bear signs indicating their origins, often from Granada or other Andalusian cities, with interiors usually featuring a Ryad — a courtyard with a fountain, greenery, and abundant natural light. Fortunately, we met a PhD historian named Alladin, who runs a family restaurant with his wife, Sara. He not only served us delicious dishes but also passionately narrated the history of the Medina, seeming to converse with the very stones and doors around him. His enthusiasm for the place’s past and attention to detail were truly captivating.
Royal Palace: Located just outside one of the entrances to the old Medina, this landmark stands next to a public square called Al Feddan. It’s a notable point in the city, and taxis are accessible.
Nearby Attractions: We planned for M’diq beach and the Akchour waterfalls, as the surrounding regions of Tétouan are breathtakingly beautiful.
Riad Al Ochak (Lovers’ Garden): Officially known as Moulay Rachid Garden, this public garden is designed in a traditional Moorish style and is positioned at the base of the hills along the road leading to the Martil Valley.
Lastly, we ventured to Chefchaouen, famously known as the “Blue Pearl City,” in northwest Morocco. This enchanting city, established in 1471 by Ali Ben Rachid, is renowned for its striking blue-hued buildings, which add to its charm. The original settlement began as a small fortress, now known as Chefchaouen’s Kasbah, built to protect the area from potential Portuguese attacks. The Kasbah featured two entrances: one leading to the bustling main square and markets, and the other near the Great Mosque.
The city was founded by immigrants from Andalusia, including many villagers and low-income families who settled in the more rural Chefchaouen, unable to afford life in larger cities like Fes and Tangier. The pressures from the Reconquista and the fall of Granada in 1492 led to waves of immigration to Morocco over the centuries. The last group of Moriscos, descendants of Muslims, were expelled from Spain by Philip III in 1609. Traditional fountains scattered throughout the old town provide water for residents; one notable example is the four-sided fountain at the heart of Uta Hammam Square.
The following day, I embarked on an early morning hike to Bouzaafer Mosque alone. This journey offered breathtaking panoramic views of the entire blue city from one of the Rif Mountains. The trek took about 40 minutes, but the morning exercise and the serenity of the location were worth every step. I relished the quietude for meditation before returning for breakfast.
Chefchaouen view from Bouzaafer Mosque, Rif Mountain
Our time in Morocco was more than just sightseeing; it was an exploration of culture. Despite the hardships faced by the Moriscos as they sought refuge in northern Africa, they successfully rebuilt their lives, infused with their unique artistry and rich cultural heritage.
*Kawa Amin is a consultant geriatrician and assistant professor of medicine at Qatar University, with interests in healthcare management and education. He holds several notable certifications and has been involved in various educational and academic activities. Dr. Amin has a passion for bridging philosophy and medical science. His work includes two published books:
Frailty outreach ISBN-13 : 978-6139900404
Life, death and Eternity ISBN : B0D4DVR89S
